Base flashing repair
The flashing where the roof meets the chimney base is the most common failure. It is lifted, re-set and the counter-flashing is checked over it.
Repairing the flashing, the counter-flashing and the cap at chimneys and stovepipes across Republic and Ferry County.
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A chimney or stovepipe is a set of joints where the roof meets a tall, hot and cold object. Snow and ice work at those joints each winter, so the flashing and the cap are checked before the first heavy snowfall.
A wood stove or a furnace in a house on this part of the state runs through the winter, and the chimney or stovepipe through the roof runs hot and then cold each day. That movement works the flashing and the sealant at the joint. A flashing that was sound in the autumn can be lifted by the spring.
The chimney is also a place where snow collects and ice builds. The crew checks the flashing, the counter-flashing and the cap, because each one can fail in a different way and the owner will not see the failure from inside the house until the water arrives.
A chimney is hot when the stove is lit, and a stove pipe can burn skin. Do not touch a hot flue or pipe. Do not chip snow or ice at a chimney from the roof, which can crack the crown and the flue.
The base flashing, the step flashing and the counter-flashing are checked for lifting and gaps. The uphill side is checked most closely because the meltwater runs there first.
The chimney cap and the crown are checked for cracks. A crack in the crown lets water run into the flue and down the chimney wall.
Lifted flashing is re-set into the mortar or the wall and fastened into sound material. A failed cap is replaced. Sealant is used as a secondary seal, not the main one.
The condition of each joint and the clearance to the stove or furnace pipe are recorded for the owner. The owner should have a chimney professional check the flue separately.
Heat and cold move the metal and the mortar at different rates, and the joint opens.
A flashing that is metal, bedded in mortar or sealant against masonry, expands and contracts at a different rate from the chimney. Each cycle of heat from the stove and the cold outside works the joint a little more. The sealant cracks first and the metal follows.
The result is a gap at the uphill side, where the snow and the melt run. The water finds the gap in the thaw and runs down behind the flashing into the wall below.
The counter-flashing is what keeps the flashing shedding water, and it is set into the mortar.
Counter-flashing is cut into the mortar joint above the step flashing, so water runs over the flashing and not behind it. If the mortar has eroded, the counter-flashing lifts and the water runs behind. The repair re-sets the counter-flashing into sound mortar, and it repoints where the mortar has failed.
Where the mortar is too far gone, the crew says so. The masonry is then a job for a mason, and the owner is advised to get that done before the flashing is re-set.
A pipe through a roof must keep a set clearance from combustible material.
A stovepipe or chimney through the roof needs a clearance from combustible materials, and that clearance is set by the stove or the chimney manufacturer and by the building rules. The crew checks the flashing and the collar at the roof, but it does not certify the flue or the stove.
The owner should have a chimney or stove professional check the flue each season. The roofer records what it sees at the roof and notes any item for that professional.
The chimney check is most useful before the first heavy snow of the season.
A check in the early autumn lets the crew re-set a lifted flashing while the roof is dry and the mortar can cure. A check made in the middle of a cold spell is harder and less safe, so it is better done early.
The owner can look at the chimney from the ground each autumn for staining, cracks in the crown and any gap at the cap, and report anything new.
Where the roof meets a wall above the chimney, the step flashing carries the water down past each course.
Step flashing is a row of short pieces, each set under the shingle above and over the shingle below, that runs up the slope against the wall. Each piece has to be set so the water runs over the next one. A piece set the wrong way, or one that has lifted, lets the water run behind the whole run.
The crew checks each step from the roof side, and where the shingles have been lifted to reach it, the course is re-laid so the step sits under the course above.
The air around a chimney has to move, or the roof above it stays warm and the snow melts unevenly.
A chimney that runs warm through the attic heats the roof deck near it, and the snow melts there first. The meltwater runs down to the cold eave and freezes. The crew checks the attic air around the chimney and notes any place the chimney is close to the insulation.
Clearance from insulation and framing is a matter for the chimney professional and the building rules. The roofer records what it sees and passes the note to the owner rather than deciding the clearance itself.
The mortar in the chimney and the cap on top are the two parts that let water into the masonry.
Mortar that has crumbled at the joints lets water soak into the brick or the block, and the water then freezes and cracks the masonry from inside. The cap at the top is meant to shed the water away from the flue. A cap that is cracked or missing lets the rain and the melt run down the inside of the chimney.
The crew looks at the joints and the cap from the roof and from the ground. Repointing the mortar is a mason's job, and the crew says where it is needed and does not present itself as a mason.
Dark staining on the roof near the chimney is a sign of the flue and the cap working together.
Dark streaks on the shingles around the chimney can come from smoke and from the flue gases that escape at the cap. The streaks are a clue to the draft and the cap, not only a cosmetic issue. The crew notes the streaks and passes them to the chimney professional, because the flue is not the roof crew's to certify.
Staining on the chimney wall below the roof edge is recorded too, with the date and the weather, so the owner has a record of when it appeared.
The flashing where the roof meets the chimney base is the most common failure. It is lifted, re-set and the counter-flashing is checked over it.
The stovepipe through the roof has a collar or boot that cracks and lets water in. The boot is replaced to the pipe size, and the flange below is checked.
A cracked crown or a missing cap is repaired so water runs off the chimney and not down the flue and the masonry.
Woodstoves and furnace flues run much of the winter in this area, so the chimney flashing takes a longer season of heat and cold than in a milder county.
Snow piled against the chimney base can hold meltwater against the flashing, so the snow is cleared from the chimney base carefully and not chipped.
The crew checks the chimney on the same visit as the roof edge and the gutters, so the owner gets one record for the roof.
Call any hour and explain what is going on. You get a clear price before any work starts.
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Finding and sealing the joint where thaw water enters a roof in Republic and the surrounding Ferry County towns.
Clearing and preventing ice dams in Republic and Ferry County by fixing the eave, the ice barrier and the warm air leaking into the attic.
Replacing cracked and lifted asphalt shingles across Republic and Ferry County, with the courses around each repair checked.
Repairing bent metal panels, lifted seams and loose fasteners on metal roofs across Republic and Ferry County.
The roof crew checks the flashing and the cap. The flue and the stove need a chimney professional. The roof record can be passed to that professional.
Only as a short fix. Sealant is the secondary seal. The flashing has to be re-set into sound material to hold.
The roof flashing and cap are worth checking once a year before the first snow. The flue is checked by a chimney professional on the schedule that professional recommends.